This ancient and effective way of fishing used to be called “florentica” or “florentica”. It got its name thanks to the city where it was invented – Florence.
The bottom line is as follows: a boat is anchored on a river with a sufficiently powerful current perpendicular to the bank. The tackle is lowered into the water from the downstream side. Its main part is a short (side) fishing rod, usually no more than a meter long, equipped with guides and a reel with a line reserve of 0.3-0.4 mm in diameter.A metal split ring with a diameter of 40-60 mm is attached to the fishing line, from which there are two leashes 0.2-0.3 mm with hooks tied at some distance from each other. The second component of the tackle is a feeder made of a fine mesh net with a load, to which a long cord is tied. An ordinary stone was used as a load, the mass of which was determined by the strength of the current: the stronger the flow, the heavier the stone.
All this was set up in this way: rusks or bread were stuffed into the feeder grid and lowered to the bottom. The end of the rope was fixed in the boat. Then a sliding metal ring with leashes was put on this rope through the connector and lowered to the feeder.
The principle of the tackle is simple: the current washes the feed out of the net, creating a fragrant food lane. The fish, climbing along it, necessarily stumbles upon hooks with a nozzle. And then, the main thing is not to yawn!
LEGALITY OF CATCHING “ON THE RING”
For many years this method of fishing was considered forbidden, because, according to officials, it was too catchy and “… the fish stocks of the USSR are being damaged …”. But one can hardly agree with this point of view, especially against the background of today’s electrical destruction of all life in water. As far as I know, in the Fishing Regulations of 1990 there is no clause prohibiting fishing tackle where hooks are connected to a feeder. So at the moment fishing on the “ring” is quite legal.
Ring with a secret
The use of tackle when fishing from a boat is effective at depths of 4 m. If you fish in shallower places, the bream insufficiently transparent water will be afraid of the boat’s shadow and noise accompanying the work with the tackle. In addition, at greater depths, the chances of catching a trophy specimen increase, rather than carrying small scavengers and roach.
One of the main elements of the rig, from which its name comes, is a lead ring. It can be cast in a mould from the ground and then processed with a file. A hole is made in the ring for passing the mainline. The hole can be made in different ways. It runs in one plane – from top to bottom. And in the hole from above falls into the side plane, due to which, when the ring is lowered onto the mesh feeder, the hooks will catch less often. Then a cut is made in order to wind the feeder cord into the “ring”.
There is one more solution which, in my opinion, is devoid of the shortcomings of the “classic”. Through a copper tube 16-18 cm long and 7-10 mm in diameter, I pass a steel wire with a diameter of 1 mm. I bend the workpiece in the shape of a horseshoe and leave the ends of the wire so that after crossing they have a length of no more than 8-10 mm. Then I fill the tube cavity with lead and drill a hole for the mainline. The horseshoe-shaped ” ring ” is devoid of the “classic” drawbacks. Firstly, it does not have a deaf, but a sliding fastening of the leashes, and secondly, when a large bream of 3-4 kg comes across, when playing, it briskly float away from the boat and breaks the leash, because the “ring” slides along the line – the feeder cord up or down, but not to the side.
The modernized “ring” behaves differently: when biting, the crossed antennae from the wire do not interfere with the fish, even with a slight effort, to pull the “ring” from the line, and then free play of the fish begins.
ROD AND RIG
A common rod, an onboard one, can be bought at any store. You can also do it yourself. Take a fiberglass full-bodied whip 1 m long and glue about 30 cm into it using epoxy resin into the neoprene handle. Install the rings and reel seat, and mount the gate on the top. From the coils, I think a small multiplier would be great. The mainline of 0.3-0.4 mm is passed through the rings, the gate spring and the “ring” hole. Leashes – 0.18-0.2 mm in diameter, hooks – № 4-8 according to the domestic classification.
I do not recommend making a tight binding of the leashes directly to the ring (Fig. 1), as the tackle becomes insensitive. For example, I do it this way: I put on a stopper bead at the end of the mainline and tie a carabiner, and then I hook a leash to it. Thanks to this attachment, even very careful bites can be noticed and it is easy to change the leads.
In my arsenal there are several feeders, which I use depending on the place of fishing. If the current is small, then you can take a simple, mesh, made from a shopping bag or a fine-mesh nylon bag from under an onion. Inside I place a lead blank or a simple stone weighing 1-3 kg, and on top I make a lingering loop, from which the cord goes to the boat. In case of strong currents, I use a feeder made of a transparent plastic jar with a volume of 1-2 liters. Coffee or cocoa containers are great for this purpose.
Since the feeder is transparent, the fish is not afraid of it. The wide threaded lid makes it easy to fill the can with food. The load is a lead “washer” weighing 2-2.5 kg, cast either in a mould-lid or in wet sand. Having made a hole in the weight, I screw it to the lid from the outside with two wide washers and a bolt. Thanks to the heavy load, the trough is upright at the bottom of the river like a toy “tumbler”. It is good because the strong current does not wash out the food as quickly as from the net.
Since I fish in places with different currents and use bait of different viscosity, I have several of these cans with holes of different diameters. I burn holes up to 25 mm with a soldering iron, and small ones, about 4-6 mm, with a hot nail. As practice has shown, bait is not washed out from such cans-feeders within 2-4 hours, even in a very strong current. It is better to tie the feeder on a 0.8-1 mm fishing line, since, unlike a cord (rope), it does not sail, and it can be pulled strictly vertically from the bottom to the boat. The line is wound on a short rod (an old broken rod, etc.) with a “Nevskaya” reel and passed through a nod spring at the end. This design allows you to quickly remove the feeder from the water, and the nod dampens the vibrations of the boat from the waves and various movements of the angler, which is important when fishing for bream.
The composition of the bait should be chosen based on the fish you want to catch. Any factory bait for a specific fish, including “Unicorm”, can be mixed with steeply cooked millet porridge. Immediately before “charging” the trough, I recommend adding a little local soil to the bait. Such a composition is washed out in the course of 2 – 3 hours. A mixture of minced seeds, black bread and bread crumbs with the addition of unrefined sunflower oil with a strong smell also works well.
After placing the boat on anchors across the current (Fig. 4) (with a very strong current, you can put it parallel to the current – Fig. 5) I lower the feeder to the bottom. I stretch the line between the boat and the feeder vertically, after which I unclench the steel tendrils of the ring (Fig. 3). I put the feeders on the line carefully and slowly so that the current draws the leash with a hook, and I lower the ring along the line until it touches the feeder. Thus, the ring will lie on the feeder, and the hook with a nozzle will be at the beginning of the feed path. The bites of the bream are classic: one or two pokes (sometimes without them), and the gatehouse slowly creeps up. The main thing here is not to miss it and make an energetic sweep, taking out the slack of the fishing line raised by the fish.
The principle of the tackle is simple: the current washes the feed out of the net, creating a fragrant path. The fish, climbing along it, necessarily stumbles upon hooks with a nozzle. If the biting has stopped, you can try to resume it. To do this, it is enough to raise and lower the feeder several times by 0.5-1 m. A “tasty” train will again stretch from it, along which the fish will return to the boat.
TIME AND PLACE OF FISHING
Bream and other “white” fish are taken from April until cold weather (usually until the end of September). In spring, fishing is successful during the pre-spawning run of “white” fish, most often at this time roach predominates in the catches, which, huddling in large schools, move along the first coastal dumps at depths of 3 to 5 m. worm.
With the onset of heat in the middle of summer, when it is impossible to be on the water during the day, and the fish almost ceases to feed in the daytime, an exciting night fishing begins on the riverbed. At night, “white” fish go out to feed at depths of 5-6 m, very often in places below the rifts. With a decrease in the daytime air temperature and cooling of the water below + 18 … + 20 ° С (usually at the beginning of September), the biting of the “white” fish intensifies – the autumn swell sets in. The fish eats throughout the day, crucian carp and carp begin to actively feed. The usual autumn depths for fishing are 6-8 m. The best bait at this time is a red worm, and if we are looking for a carp, then we should not forget about canned corn and boilies… In all cases, in moderate current, the boat should be stretched across the current, perpendicular to the bank. In very strong currents, I recommend placing the boat parallel to the current, thereby reducing drag.
- The fishing is over, it’s time to go home, but the load does not want to come off the bottom – it is “sucked” into the silt. In such cases, it is necessary to “pump out” it. To do this, throw the anchor rope over the side and, swinging the boat up and down, jerk the load out of the silt.
- Try occasionally shaking the feeder underwater to increase the area of the bait particles.
- When playing a large specimen, take your time, be prepared for the fact that in order to avoid breaking the line you will have to pay it off. When fishing from a depth of more than 10 m, the caught fish undergoes decompression due to a sharp rise, so you can take it out of the water with your hands.
- While fishing, periodically raise the feeder, checking for the presence of food in it. If the bite is active, then the main task is to prevent the fish from moving away from the boat, and this requires the constant presence of the mixture in the feeder.
- In determining the places of catching “white” fish, the echo sounder is of great help, which perfectly records its accumulations. If you don’t have an echo sounder, don’t be afraid to change location. Usually, one hour is enough to search for a fish school.
- Don’t get carried away with long leads. The length of 30-50 cm is quiet enough not to scare off the fish, and the tackle remains sensitive. The long leash allows the fish to eat the bait with impunity.
- It is convenient to store spare leashes of various lengths and with different hooks for specific attachments wrapped around a piece of foam mat.